Dog Breeds Prone to Lenticular Sclerosis
Eye Problems
Two common canine eye problems are lenticular sclerosis and senile cataracts, both of which create a haze over the lens. Lenticular (nuclear) sclerosis, a type of cataract, is a bluish film that usually develops in both lenses of middle-age or senior dogs; it does not affect vision dramatically. Senile cataracts, however, are a whitish, opaque film directly affecting a dog’s retinas and vision. Most elderly dogs eventually develop one or both types of problems.
Breeds Susceptible
According to vet and behaviorist Dr. Ron Hines, some dogs get cataracts sooner than others. Among the larger breeds are cocker spaniels, German shepherds, golden retrievers, Labrador retrievers, Afghans, Chesapeake Bay retrievers, Old Eglish sheepdogs, huskies, and springer spaniels. Smaller dogs, such as Westies, poodles and schnauzers, get cataracts more frequently than other breeds. However, most dogs eventually get cataracts, especially the lenticular sclerosis type, as they age, starting at about age 6.
Other Causes
Although the cause is unknown, some dog breeds have inherited predisposition to cataract development, including lenticular sclerosis, at birth. According to Dr. Hines, typical breeds include fox terriers, bichon frises, cocker spaniels, Afghans, Boston terriers, standard poodles, miniature schnauzers, Westies and malamutes. Other contributing factors are eye injuries, eye inflammation, bad nutrition due to deficiencies in certain vitamins and minerals, and diabetes due to uncontrolled high blood sugar.
Treatment
Although you may think a dog with lenticular sclerosis is suffering, he’s not. No treatment is necessary. Most dogs adapt well to the condition and lead normal lives, with fairly good vision. However, you should have a veterinarian examine your dog and then have the vet periodically monitor for development of senile cataracts, which can, but may not, develop later. If your dog does develop full-fledged cataracts, they can be surgically corrected.
Good Non-Shedding Dogs for the Apartment Life
Choosing Your Dog
Finding the right dog is complicated if you have limited living space and even more difficult if you have allergies. Before looking for a dog, it is important to do research and learn about types of dogs who adjust well to apartment life and who are considered low- to non-shedding and hypoallergenic. Because each dog breed is unique, you cannot know for certain which breed or mix of breeds will cause an allergic reaction, so everyone in your household should try to spend time with the kinds of dogs you are considering before making a decision. This will prevent your choosing a dog who is not suited for apartment living or who triggers allergic responses.
Miniature Schnauzer
The miniature schnauzer is a family dog and loving companion, a lapdog who is playful and tolerant with children. This small schnauzer is one of the most adaptable terriers and can be a well-mannered apartment dog. She sheds very little, although she has has a short coat that needs regular maintenance because the hair is prone to matting. Miniature schnauzers are curious and alert and enjoy being right in the middle of any activity.
Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier
The soft-coated wheaten terrier is one of the most gentle terriers. When provided with enough outdoor exercise, these can be calm, sweet apartment dogs. Wheatens are very affectionate and prefer to be lapdogs even though they weigh about 35 pounds. They are playful and friendly with children and dogs. Soft-coated wheaten terriers want to be close to their people and adapt well to life in the city. Well-balanced wheatens can remain calm even when the doorbell rings or people come to visit.
Bedlington Terrier
Bedlington terriers are companion dogs who enjoy moderate play and exercise, crave affection and get along fairly well with people and other pets. They are gentle dogs who are comfortable in apartments and can be good watchdogs. The Bedlington weighs under 25 pounds, has a curly woolen coat that does not shed and resembles a lamb.
Chinese Crested
Chinese crested dogs are playful, affectionate lapdogs who get along with cats, other dogs, adults and children. They do not need much exercise and are happy playing games in the house and going for short walks outside, as long as the weather is not cold. The hairless variety of this breed is non-shedding, but has special skin care needs, such as a need to be protected from sunshine. Your hairless Chinese crested should also wear a sweater for cold or cool weather outings.
Havanese
The Havanese is considered a hypoallergenic, non-shedding dog breed. These dogs originated in Cuba, where they were kept as companion dogs. They are excellent family dogs, friendly with everyone—other dogs, pets, adults, children and strangers. These little dogs are attentive, intelligent and trainable, as well as silly and clownish, and they enjoy being the center of attention. They can be calm, quiet apartment dogs whose exercise requirements will be satisfied by a short walk and a vigorous indoor play session.
Italian Greyhound
Italian greyhounds are ideal apartment dogs who need little exercise, except for an occasional outdoor run. They are very friendly, easy to train and loyal. They shed very little, so are good for allergy sufferers. These slight dogs are sensitive to cold, so you will have to provide your Italian greyhound with a warm home and a sweater when the weather is chilly. Italian greyhounds prefer a quiet, calm atmosphere, and they are excellent dogs for people who lead quiet lives and who enjoy a calm companion by their side.
The Life Span of an Irish Wolfhound
Considerations Before Buying
Compared to other breeds, Irish wolfhounds live significantly shorter lives — a factor the Irish Wolfhound Club of America asks all perspective owners to consider before acquiring the dog. If you own an Irish wolfhound, be prepared for your dog to encounter serious health conditions. Irish wolfhounds suffer from genetic disorders associated with the breed including high rates of bone cancer and dangerously enlarged hearts. Because of their large size, these dog are at higher risk for painful hip dysplasia and other joint problems. Irish wolfhounds are also the breed most likely to suffer from bloat, a life-threatening condition where the stomach fills with gas and twists, cutting off the blood flow through the body. Despite these health concerns, proper veterinary care can help owners and their Irish wolfhounds spend many healthy years together.
Life Span of a Greyhound
Greyhound Life Span
Greyhounds, even retired racing greyhounds, are generally long-lived. The average life span of a greyhound is between 10 and 13 years, but some individuals of the breed can live up to 15 years. Part of the reason for greyhounds’ longevity is the lack of major genetic health problems that sometimes plague other breeds.
Health Issues
Though greyhounds are typically very healthy dogs, a few health problems are commonly seen in the breed. Greyhounds can be susceptible to bone cancer, particularly in the legs, and are prone to cuts and lacerations in their delicate skin. Retired racing greyhounds may have injuries from their racing days that can impact their longevity, including muscle, hock and foot issues.
Dogs & Conformation Training
Conformation Shows
Start by familiarizing yourself with the breed and grooming standard for your particular dog, then the rules and regulations regarding conformation classes. Visit shows or watch them on television to get a feel for the competition. Speak with breeders about purchasing a show-quality puppy. Pet-quality puppies make wonderful companions, but they won’t make it in the show ring. Before starting conformation-specific training, make sure your puppy or dog has what it takes to succeed. If he’s got the potential, your local parent breed or an all-breed club can help you navigate the next steps.
Basic Obedience
Training for the show ring should go hand-in-hand with basic obedience training. Your dog should know the commands “sit,” “stand,” “stay,” “down” and “heel.” Work particularly on “stand and stay,” as this is the position in which the dog is judged. Taking your puppy to obedience classes also exposes him to other dogs, a must for the potential show canine.
Stacking
To best display his assets, your dog must learn to “stack” correctly. Some dogs do this naturally, while others need considerable training. Although the correct stack varies by breeds, in most cases the animal’s forelegs stack in alignment with the withers, with rear pasterns aligned at a 90 degree angle from the ground. You are permitted to manually stack your dog, moving each foot into the correct position, but free-stacking is preferred. That involves not touching your dog, but having him stack himself via voice or gestural commands.
Baiting
Training your dog to look at you on command is imperative if you plan to compete. So-called “bait training” uses a food incentive, but a few other incentives work as well with canines. Start by repeating a word, such as “treat” while your dog consumes his food. That ensures the word has a pleasurable connotation. During obedience training, keep treats — or kibble — in your pocket and use the term when your dog is performing a stand-stay. Your dog looks at you while extending his neck, which, if done correctly, puts him in the correct pose for showing off the breed silhouette. While you can use the word whenever you want the dog’s attention, do not use it when your dog sits, as conformation classes do not involve sitting and you don’t want him to react improperly.
Raising Puppies in the First Few Weeks of Life
Feeding
1Heat up the puppy formula, often called “milk replacer,” to a lukewarm temperature by placing the formula in a container and then in a bowl of hot water. Boiling water will be too hot and microwaves can be uneven. You can also use a bottle warmer if you have one handy. Just as with checking formula for a human infant, test it on the inside of your wrist to make sure it’s not too hot.
2Put the formula in a specialized nursing bottle or an eyedropper. Before feeding her, make sure that the formula doesn’t run out of the nipple by turning it upside down — if it does it means the hole in the nipple is too big. This could result in drowning or other problems for your baby pups.
3Hold the pup with her belly on your hand or forearm and gently cradle her head. then put the nipple to her mouth. Do this every two to three hours throughout the day for the first week or two, then reduce it to every six to eight hours after the third week.
4Mix the formula with wet or dry puppy food when the pups reach 3 to 4 weeks old. Place the mixture on a flat saucer. The consistency should be similar to that of oatmeal. This will start the weaning process. Put some of this mixture on the tip of your finger and hold it to the puppy’s mouth then slowly move your finger to the saucer of food.
Warmth and Hygiene
1Place a heating pad or hot water bottle under a blanket or towel in the puppy’s nesting box. Mother dogs keep their babies warm by nuzzling them and keeping them close. The heating source mimics this. During the first week, the ideal temperature should be around 85 to 90 degrees. You can drop this to 80 degrees for the next month or so. Puppies over 6 weeks can handle 75 degrees.
2Dip a cotton ball in warm — not hot — water and gently rub their anal region and lower abdomen with it. This will help stimulate elimination, as puppies won’t do this on their own. Don’t rub too hard or for too long; a couple of minutes suffices.
3Wash the puppies’ bodies with warm water after elimination, either urination or defecation. Wash with a very soft washcloth to do this. Urine can cause skin burns similar to diaper rash, while feces may cause infection or invite parasites.
4Massage newborns gently all over their body with your fingertips or a soft, dry cloth to help stimulate them and mimic their mother’s love.
Instructions on Grooming Dog Paws
1Inspect your dog’s paws weekly. Look for signs of dryness or cracking in the pads, torn or overgrown nails, and minor cuts anywhere in the paw. Check for small objects that might be lodged between pads. Use tweezers to remove anything you find. Praise your dog during an inspection to send the message that paw handling is a good thing.
2Trim the fur around the paws. When long paw fur becomes matted it can hide irritating objects such as small stones and soot. Matted fur itself becomes an irritant when it cakes and hardens. Remove this fur carefully with scissors, clipping in small snips rather than cutting large chunks of hair at a time.
3Examine nails and trim as needed. Clip after a bath, when nails will be softer, and use a trimmer designed for dog nails. Take care not to trim too short, as dog nails contain a small vein, called a quick, and clipping too close to the quick can cause bleeding and pain.
4Massage Vitamin E oil or paw wax into your dog’s pads to keep them soft and prevent drying and cracking, which can be very painful. If using Vitamin E, poke a hole in a few capsules and squeeze out as much oil as needed to massage into pads. Paw wax, which can be purchased online or at pet shops, protects pads from rock salt in winter and hot pavement in summer by forming a protective barrier.
5Watch for paw licking or chewing, which can be triggered by allergies or irritants. Keep your dog away from lawn chemicals and any known allergens, including ragweed or plants in your yard, to help maintain paw health. If a dog’s paw licking becomes obsessive, seek veterinary care to determine the cause and develop a treatment.
6Handle your dog’s paws while playing or petting so the animal becomes accustomed to you touching the paws when you’re not grooming. This should be easy to do with puppies, but older dogs that are not used to being paw handled may protest. Work gently to convince an uncomfortable dog that your handling of its paws can be a time of bonding.