Crock-Pot dog food is easy and convenient to make for you, inexpensive for your pocketbook and good for your dog — so much so that it could be called the lazy man’s way to a happy and healthy pet.

Cook’s Duties

Put it in, turn it on and walk away — just walk away. That’s all there is to it. No stirring, no clock watching. The hardest part is deciding what to put into your slow cooker. The combination of meats, vegetables and grains is entirely up to you, but your pup is sure to love chicken, brown rice and carrots or ground beef, oatmeal and chopped spinach. Once you explore the range of suitable and available foods, neither you nor your dog will ever find puppy supper boring again.

Control

Homemade dog food gives you complete control of what your dog eats, and it’s up to you to see that he gets a balanced diet. That means considering the ratio of ingredients, as well as that of calcium to potassium. The former is easily satisfied by a 1:1:1 ratio (or the Rule of Thirds — one part meat to one part veg to one part grain), and the second by feeding bones. With long, slow hours in a Crock-Pot, you can cook poultry bones until they disintegrate and become one with the food, thereby supplementing your dog’s calcium intake.

Convenience

It doesn’t get much more convenient than homemade dog food in a slow cooker. It means no labels to read, impossible names to pronounce or heavy bags of kibble to lug from the store to the car to the house. It also means no slaving over a hot stove. The dog’s dinner can perk along all night, while you and he pound your respective pillows. It can also simmer while you’re at work or out shopping; just put the pot somewhere Snoopy can’t possibly get to it, as he may not be able to resist the enticing aroma. Recipes are plentiful and easy to find, and you can let your creative inclinations run riot (as long as you stay within his dietary needs).

Costs

Homemade dog food doesn’t have to break your food budget. Not all the ingredients you put into your dog’s dinner need to be what you would serve company. Check with the produce man at your grocery store or farmer’s market about a price break on vegetables that are a little too tired to be on display — the dog will neither know nor care if the carrots are limp; dogs approach food with their noses, not their eyes. Grow your own veggies. Look over the meat displays at your local mega mart for special labels that mean reduced price. Check your freezer for freezer-burned meats. If you have hunters as friends, they may have some game they’d like to get rid of to make room in their freezer for this year’s bag. Rolled oats, whole barley and brown rice are downright cheap.

If your dog produces a litter of “rainbow puppies,” with every puppy looking like a distinctly different type of dog, she might very well have mated with more than one male. That will be especially obvious if you bred your purebred female to a purebred male and ended up with puppies that definitely aren’t that breed. Then you recall she did briefly get loose during her heat cycle…. Canine Reproduction An intact female dog generally comes into heat twice a year, approximately every six months. Small breed dogs experience more estrus cycles, perhaps as many as four per year. Very large breeds, such as great Danes, might only come into heat annually. Most dogs reach puberty at about 6 months of age. You’ll notice a bloody discharge when the cycle starts, but your dog shouldn’t get pregnant at that stage. Between a week to 10 days into the cycle, when the discharge becomes watery, the dog ovulates. However, there’s no truly safe time during heat when she can’t get pregnant, because every dog’s body is different. Multiple Fathers Once female dogs start ovulating, egg release continues over several days. Sperm can survive in the reproductive tract for a week after mating. This means if your dog mated with one dog shortly before ovulation, she could still become impregnated seven days later. Breeders usually recommend two or three matings over a few days to ensure pregnancy. Accidental breedings with different males can just as easily occur over that time period. Avoiding Accidents The easiest way to make sure your dog doesn’t get pregnant is by having her spayed. If that’s not an option because you intend to breed her, ask your vet about prescription hormone medications that can act as canine birth control. When your female dog is receptive to males, not only will she want to get out of the house, but intact male dogs in the area want to get to her. You can’t leave your female dog unsupervised for even a brief period when she’s in heat, and that includes leaving her in your normally secure fenced-in yard. If you take her out for walks, she’s leaving clues that’s she’s available every time she pees. Even if you’ve bred her deliberately, with two or more matings with the same dog, as long as she’s still receptive some strange dog could try his luck. Registration The American Kennel Club, the governing body of purebred dog registration, shows and many canine sports in the United States, recognizes that puppies in a litter might have different dads. While the AKC allows multiple-sired litter registration, the fathers must be the same breed as the mother. In order to register such a litter, the AKC requires DNA testing for the mother, potential sires and all puppies. Once the AKC determines the sires of particular puppies, registration can ensue. If one of the sires was a purebred dog of the same breed as the mother and the other was a different or mixed breed, the AKC might register the purebred puppies if DNA of all parents and puppies is submitted.

Adopting a puppy truly can be a win-win situation — you get the pet you desire, and you save one from possibly never being adopted or euthanized. Of the 6 to 8 million pets who wind up in shelters, only about half are adopted, according to The Humane Society of the United States. Most dogs in shelters are between 5 months and 3 years of age, so it shouldn’t be too difficult to find the right pup for you. Besides shelters, you can adopt a puppy from rescue organizations. Have a question? Get an answer from a Vet now!

Shelter or Rescues

Shelters and rescues are where people typically adopt puppies. Shelters usually are government funded. Dogs receive their vaccinations, heartworm prevention, spaying and neutering at lost cost. Dogs there, however, could be euthanized if not adopted or if they become ill. Rescues typically don’t euthanize; they pay the costs to treat dogs who get sick in addition to spaying or neutering and giving vaccinations. Sometimes veterinarians donate their services to help rescues stay afloat. Rescues need donations and volunteers to exist.

Breed Specific

Many folks don’t think of puppy adoption when they have a specific breed in mind. But they shouldn’t be so fast to rule out adoption. About 25 percent of pets in shelters are purebreds, according to the HSUS. Breed-specific rescue groups exist, too. Perform a breed-specific search by typing the breed’s name in a search engine followed by the word “rescue” to determine whether one is near you.

Why They’re There

Puppies typically are in shelters because their owners move or because the landlord doesn’t want the pup to stay. It isn’t correct to assume that the puppies are undesirable. Many wonderful puppies who already might be housebroken or know basic commands are in shelters. Plus, shelter workers get to know the pups and can help match you with a puppy that meets your needs.

Be Prepared

Shelters and rescues encourage people to adopt puppies, but they also want the pups to go to a “forever” home. Be prepared to show that you can provide a good home for an adopted puppy. You need to commit to keeping this dog for 10 or 15 years, be able to spend time with the dog and have adequate space depending on the breed you select. You also must be able to afford to care for the dog. Expect to pay several hundred dollars a year for a dog and more if you have one who needs professional grooming. Also, consider the rest of your household. Tell the shelter workers or rescue volunteers if you have babies, toddlers or other pets.

Violent spinning or tail chasing can signify distress and anxiety in your dog. Spinning, unlike digging, chasing and chewing, is not a natural dog behavior and has no root in the animal’s behavioral evolution. Often, spinning behavior is compulsive; it appears as if the pooch is unable to resist doing it. Training a dog not to act compulsively requires a different approach than traditional obedience training.

Observation and Monitoring

Keep a diary of your dog’s behavior and note trends that may point to a cause for the violent spinning. You may notice that certain stimuli, such as visitors to the house, the presence of other dogs or even just the arrival home of a family member, causes your dog to compulsively spin. By knowing the precursors to the behavior, you can anticipate and act promptly when it occurs.

Distraction and Redirection

Using your understanding of your dog’s behavior from the behavior diary, be ready to interrupt your dog before he begins to spin. Call his name, clap your hands or stomp your feet. Whatever gets his attention is good, provided you don’t startle him. By distracting him, you draw his focus away from the spinning behavior. Once you have his attention, redirect it to a positive outlet, such as a toy or activity, such as play.

Normalizing the Stimuli

Distraction and redirection are useful for stopping your dog when he wants to spin, but desensitization and counter-conditioning are essential in removing that desire. Using your knowledge of the trigger stimuli that cause your dog to spin, set up a situation in which your dog would be likely to react by spinning. For example, have a friend ring the doorbell or get a family member to leave and then return home.

Desensitization and Counter-Conditioning

Repeat these scenarios with as much frequency as is convenient. It’s essential to act as normally and calmly as possible while your dog is exposed to these trigger stimuli. By repeatedly exposing him to the stimuli, you are desensitizing him to them. Over time, the effect of the stimuli will diminish. Many dog owners make the mistake of pandering to their pets when they’re exposed to stimuli. A good example of this is the well-meaning owner who fusses over their pet when fireworks are going off. The dog notices that the owner is behaving unusually and therefore becomes agitated. By behaving normally when a trigger stimulus is present, you slowly counter-condition your dog.

Operant Conditioning

Each time he reacts calmly or indifferently to a stimuli that previously caused him to spin, give the dog a reward. This teaches him that calmness and passiveness have a positive outcome; it’s called operant conditioning and is the basis of reward-based training. Once your dog learns that his calm behavior results in a reward or treat, he’ll instinctively repeat the calm behavior.

Spaying is the most common abdominal surgery performed on dogs, with most recovering just fine. However, the operation still is major surgery and complications can arise. In a rare worst-case scenario, the dog succumbs during the surgery, due to a reaction to anesthesia or other issue. While there’s nothing you can do about that dire situation, you can keep a careful eye on your dog while she recuperates and seek immediate veterinary attention if needed.

Loose Sutures

Among the most common problems occurring in the recently spayed dog concerns loose sutures or stitches. That’s why your vet recommends using an Elizabethan collar on your dog for about a week, until her incision heals. Yes, your dog hates this “cone of shame,” but it prevents her from licking or chewing the incision. After you bring her home, check the incision a few times daily. If it appears inflamed or swollen, or any pus is seeping out, contact your vet immediately. While slight bleeding for a day or two after surgery is normal, call your vet if there’s significant bleeding. In a worst-case scenario, the incision opens and your dog’s intestines protrude. If that happens, get her to an emergency veterinary hospital at once.

Seromas and Abscesses

Dogs might develop lumps or swelling at the site of the incision. It’s important that your vet examine your dog and make a diagnosis, because these lumps have varying causes. A seroma may form underneath the sutures, filled with watery, reddish fluid. Keeping your dog quiet, as the vet recommends, lessens the odds of seroma formation. Your vet makes a diagnosis by taking a fluid sample. If pus rather than liquid emerges, your dog has an abscess, which means infection-causing bacteria have invaded the incision. Dogs with abscesses often are in pain, compared to those with the normally pain-free seromas. While a seroma might resolve on its own, abscesses require drainage and your vet will prescribe an antibiotic regimen.

Canine Hernias

Hernias occur when the sutures in your dog’s abdominal wall collapse. This can result in fat, intestines and even internal organs falling out of the abdomen and protruding beneath the skin. If the hernia consists only of fat, it shouldn’t cause your dog pain or serious consequences. If your dog appears in pain from the lump, suspect that the protrusion consists of intestinal parts or even organs (commonly the bladder) and get her to the vet immediately. Your pet might require emergency surgery to save her life.

Other Post-Spay Complications

It’s not unusual for dogs to suffer from constipation after spaying. If she doesn’t move her bowels by the fifth day post-surgery, ask your vet whether you might give your dog a stool softener. Your vet can recommend a specific brand and dosage. If she doesn’t have a bowel movement with a few days after consuming the stool softener, take her to the vet. Some female dogs develop urinary incontinence problems after spaying. If dribbling or more serious incontinence doesn’t resolve itself within a few days after the surgery, contact your vet.

Mitral valve insufficiency is a canine medical condition characterized by heart failure. It routinely affects elderly canines. Mitral valve insufficiency is also known by the name of “mitral regurgitation.” The disease is prevalent in a variety of specific dog breeds, particularly smallish ones such as Lhasa apsos and pugs. Despite that, pooches of any breed are potentially susceptible to this heart disease.

Mitral Valve Insufficiency

Mitral valve insufficiency is the state of the valve that serves as the barrier between his left ventricle and left atrium not shutting sufficiently or working properly in general. Doggie hearts have four separate units — pairs of atria and pairs of ventricles. A lot of circumstances can trigger the condition, including valve infection and the slipping back of the valve. Mitral valve insufficiency is frequently linked to the presence of heart murmurs.

Life Expectancy

Mitral valve insufficiency usually affects smallish doggies but also those of middle age. This heart disease is common in senior pets. When it comes to guessing a dog’s life expectancy after confirmation of mitral valve insufficiency, factors such as intensity of the condition come into play. It’s also important to analyze how quickly the ailment was identified in the first place. No two dogs with mitral valve insufficiency are the same. Some of them survive for for or six years totally symptom-free. With proper management, some can live for a few comfortable years — usually in situations in which the problem was rapidly noticed. On the other hand, dogs with mitral valve insufficiency often quickly pass away as soon as they begin exhibiting indications of heart failure.

Symptoms

Some key signs of mitral valve insufficiency are rapid heart rate, panting, feebleness, coughing, low energy, fatigue, problems engaging in physical activity, antsy nighttime behavior, weight loss, labored breathing, sleeping troubles, unusual noises coming from the heart, elevated respiratory rate and fainting. Veterinary guidance is imperative for dogs with mitral valve insufficiency. Veterinarians use various methods for diagnosing the condition, including electrocardiograms, radiographs, blood work and examinations of the urine.

Veterinary Management

Mitral valve insufficiency doesn’t have a cure, although many dogs who suffer from it do well on medicines that minimize some effects and slow its advancement. Common veterinary management options for mitral valve insufficiency include everything from feeding foods with decreased sodium content to the employment of diuretics. Veterinarians often recommend feeding balanced diets as well as ensuring dogs get ample physical activity and have optimal weight — things that promote longevity in some dogs with mitral valve insufficiency. Proper use of medicine is vital. With premium management, dogs who exhibit heart failure indications may survive for 2 to 3 years after diagnosis.

Australian cattle dogs are powerful and bold herding animals who hail — you might have guessed it — from the land of koalas, kangaroos and vegemite. These midsize canines are commonly referred to as “blue heelers,” a reference to their heel-nipping approach to herding and their often blue-tinged coats.

Blue Heeler Basics

Blue heelers have been around since the end of the 19th century, when they were bred to work alongside cattle. Not only are blue heelers renowned for their diligence, they’re also frequently considered to be loving family dogs. Their thick and short fur is either blue or red, and “red heeler” is another common handle for the breed. Blue heelers who have caring and attentive caretakers can have content and thriving lives of 10 to 13 years. Blue heelers are vulnerable to a handful of medical conditions.

Progressive Retinal Atrophy

Progressive retinal atrophy is an eye condition that frequently appears in blue heelers. This ailment involves retinal deterioration and the vision detriment that follows it. If your blue heeler is dealing with this disease, you might notice symptoms including difficulty seeing at night, widened pupils and the emergence of cataracts. Dogs with this issue do not experience pain. Progressive retinal atrophy works slowly to bring upon full vision loss in canines.

Canine Hip Dysplasia

Blue heelers are susceptible to canine hip dysplasia, a disorder caused by irregularities with hip joint growth. With dysplasia, hip joints aren’t fixed in place, and discomfort results. If your blue heeler has canine hip dysplasia, he might hobble a lot and exhibit a strong aversion to physical activity. His body might always be rigid and tense, particularly at morning.

Deafness

Deafness occurs in many blue heelers. Some blue heelers who develop hearing difficulties can’t hear at all; others can to a degree. If your blue heeler has congenital hearing problems, he might make it apparent to you in a variety of ways. If, for instance, your pooch never seems to be aware that you’re nearby prior to your establishing physical contact with him, it could mean he never hears you approaching him. Other common indications of deafness in canines are inordinate barking, lack of reaction to random noises and trembling of the ears.

Other Health Issues

Other health issues that blue heelers are prone to are the blood vessel irregularity of liver shunts, the foggy eye lens condition of cataracts, the eye difficulties of persistent pupillary membranes and the blood disorder von Willebrand’s disease. Since symptoms for any diseases to which blue heelers are prone might not always be 100 percent clear or obvious, regular veterinary appointments are a must. The sooner you confirm the presence of a medical situation in your pooch, inherited or otherwise, the sooner you can get him the proper veterinary management he needs.