Boxer Puppies and Health Issues
Bloat
Boxer puppies are prone to bloat because they possess an insatiable appetite coupled with a conformation conducive to bloat — deep chests and narrow waists. Boxer puppies or adults that bolt their food can develop bloat, also known as stomach torsion or gastric-dilatation volvulus. Gas pressure accumulates in the stomach and expands the stomach to dangerous degrees. The stomach presses on other organs and can shut off blood supply to the stomach and heart. Bloat is a medical emergency. Symptoms include abdominal swelling, dry heaves, drooling and panting suddenly due to pain.
Heat Stroke
Boxers possess a very short nose or a brachycephalic face. Although this makes a boxer cute, the shape of the nose can lead to serious health issues, most notably heat stroke. Dogs regulate their body temperature through panting, not sweating. The tissues inside of a dog’s nose help cool inhaled air. But brachycephalic noses like boxers work inefficiently because they lack enough of this tissue. Boxer puppies play vigorously, even during hot and humid weather. They may play until they collapse with heat stroke. Heat stroke can be fatal. Symptoms of heat stroke include panting rapidly, struggling for breath, bright red gums and loss of coordination.
Hip Dysplasia
The American Boxer Club states that hip dysplasia is the leading cause for lameness in boxers and that 11.3 percent of boxers develop dysplasia. Hip dysplasia, mostly seen in puppies, is a genetic disease that causes malformations of the hip sockets. The head of the femoral leg bone rolls loosely in the socket, causing pain, lameness and arthritis. Puppies begin to show signs of lameness and sitting awkwardly when they are from 6 to 18 months old, according to Mar Vista Animal Medical Center. Hip dysplasia is treatable, often through surgery.
Cardiomyopathy
Sometimes known as boxer cardiomyopathy or arrythmogenic right ventricular cardiomyopathy, this is a genetic heart problem that can cause sudden death from congestive heart failure in boxers of all ages. Boxers with this condition may suddenly faint or go into a seizure. Boxer cardiomyopathy is treatable with medication.
Beginning Dog Grooming
Brushing and Trimming
While you brush your hair after a shower, you should brush your dog’s fur before his bath. This clears away the dead hair that could otherwise end up in your drain. Also, if your dog has mats in his fur, getting them wet makes them more difficult to remove. Choose a brush suited for your dog’s type of fur — for example, short-haired dogs need soft-bristled brushes — and give him a thorough brushing from head to tail at least once a week, and before every bath.
Bathing Your Dog
According to the ASPCA, you should only bathe your dog once every three months, or as needed in between. This is because dogs produce protective, natural oils that coat their skin and fur, and washing your dog can strip those oils away. Choose a low-foaming dog shampoo and wash your dog in lukewarm water, lathering him according to the shampoo’s instructions. Be careful not to get any in his eyes, ears or mouth — when it’s time to wash his face, use a wet washcloth.
Nail Care
When a dog’s nails get too long, they make it difficult for him to walk — this can even affect his gait and his posture, and leave his paws deformed. When your dog’s nails are long enough to hear tapping the ground when he walks, they need to be trimmed. Use a special pair of canine nail clippers and carefully snip the tips, being careful not to cut through the visible vein running into the nail. If you cut this vein, called the quick, apply styptic powder to the cut to stop the bleeding. Not all dogs like having their nails trimmed, especially if this is your first time, so save it for when he’s tired and relaxed. If he resists, don’t force him to undergo all four paws at once — you may have to do a few nails at a time until he gets used to it.
Other Considerations
Your dog’s breed determines the other factors you may need to consider before starting to groom him yourself. For example, pugs and other dogs with facial folds need to have them cleaned out at least once a week. Dogs with large ears, like basset hounds, need to have their ears cleaned out once a week. Ask your veterinarian if your dog has any special needs like these, so you can incorporate them into your new grooming regimen.
Homemade Dog Food in a Crock Pot
Cook’s Duties
Put it in, turn it on and walk away — just walk away. That’s all there is to it. No stirring, no clock watching. The hardest part is deciding what to put into your slow cooker. The combination of meats, vegetables and grains is entirely up to you, but your pup is sure to love chicken, brown rice and carrots or ground beef, oatmeal and chopped spinach. Once you explore the range of suitable and available foods, neither you nor your dog will ever find puppy supper boring again.
Control
Homemade dog food gives you complete control of what your dog eats, and it’s up to you to see that he gets a balanced diet. That means considering the ratio of ingredients, as well as that of calcium to potassium. The former is easily satisfied by a 1:1:1 ratio (or the Rule of Thirds — one part meat to one part veg to one part grain), and the second by feeding bones. With long, slow hours in a Crock-Pot, you can cook poultry bones until they disintegrate and become one with the food, thereby supplementing your dog’s calcium intake.
Convenience
It doesn’t get much more convenient than homemade dog food in a slow cooker. It means no labels to read, impossible names to pronounce or heavy bags of kibble to lug from the store to the car to the house. It also means no slaving over a hot stove. The dog’s dinner can perk along all night, while you and he pound your respective pillows. It can also simmer while you’re at work or out shopping; just put the pot somewhere Snoopy can’t possibly get to it, as he may not be able to resist the enticing aroma. Recipes are plentiful and easy to find, and you can let your creative inclinations run riot (as long as you stay within his dietary needs).
Costs
Homemade dog food doesn’t have to break your food budget. Not all the ingredients you put into your dog’s dinner need to be what you would serve company. Check with the produce man at your grocery store or farmer’s market about a price break on vegetables that are a little too tired to be on display — the dog will neither know nor care if the carrots are limp; dogs approach food with their noses, not their eyes. Grow your own veggies. Look over the meat displays at your local mega mart for special labels that mean reduced price. Check your freezer for freezer-burned meats. If you have hunters as friends, they may have some game they’d like to get rid of to make room in their freezer for this year’s bag. Rolled oats, whole barley and brown rice are downright cheap.
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About Puppy Adoption
Shelter or Rescues
Shelters and rescues are where people typically adopt puppies. Shelters usually are government funded. Dogs receive their vaccinations, heartworm prevention, spaying and neutering at lost cost. Dogs there, however, could be euthanized if not adopted or if they become ill. Rescues typically don’t euthanize; they pay the costs to treat dogs who get sick in addition to spaying or neutering and giving vaccinations. Sometimes veterinarians donate their services to help rescues stay afloat. Rescues need donations and volunteers to exist.
Breed Specific
Many folks don’t think of puppy adoption when they have a specific breed in mind. But they shouldn’t be so fast to rule out adoption. About 25 percent of pets in shelters are purebreds, according to the HSUS. Breed-specific rescue groups exist, too. Perform a breed-specific search by typing the breed’s name in a search engine followed by the word “rescue” to determine whether one is near you.
Why They’re There
Puppies typically are in shelters because their owners move or because the landlord doesn’t want the pup to stay. It isn’t correct to assume that the puppies are undesirable. Many wonderful puppies who already might be housebroken or know basic commands are in shelters. Plus, shelter workers get to know the pups and can help match you with a puppy that meets your needs.
Be Prepared
Shelters and rescues encourage people to adopt puppies, but they also want the pups to go to a “forever” home. Be prepared to show that you can provide a good home for an adopted puppy. You need to commit to keeping this dog for 10 or 15 years, be able to spend time with the dog and have adequate space depending on the breed you select. You also must be able to afford to care for the dog. Expect to pay several hundred dollars a year for a dog and more if you have one who needs professional grooming. Also, consider the rest of your household. Tell the shelter workers or rescue volunteers if you have babies, toddlers or other pets.
Dog Training to Stop Violent Spinning
Observation and Monitoring
Keep a diary of your dog’s behavior and note trends that may point to a cause for the violent spinning. You may notice that certain stimuli, such as visitors to the house, the presence of other dogs or even just the arrival home of a family member, causes your dog to compulsively spin. By knowing the precursors to the behavior, you can anticipate and act promptly when it occurs.
Distraction and Redirection
Using your understanding of your dog’s behavior from the behavior diary, be ready to interrupt your dog before he begins to spin. Call his name, clap your hands or stomp your feet. Whatever gets his attention is good, provided you don’t startle him. By distracting him, you draw his focus away from the spinning behavior. Once you have his attention, redirect it to a positive outlet, such as a toy or activity, such as play.
Normalizing the Stimuli
Distraction and redirection are useful for stopping your dog when he wants to spin, but desensitization and counter-conditioning are essential in removing that desire. Using your knowledge of the trigger stimuli that cause your dog to spin, set up a situation in which your dog would be likely to react by spinning. For example, have a friend ring the doorbell or get a family member to leave and then return home.
Desensitization and Counter-Conditioning
Repeat these scenarios with as much frequency as is convenient. It’s essential to act as normally and calmly as possible while your dog is exposed to these trigger stimuli. By repeatedly exposing him to the stimuli, you are desensitizing him to them. Over time, the effect of the stimuli will diminish. Many dog owners make the mistake of pandering to their pets when they’re exposed to stimuli. A good example of this is the well-meaning owner who fusses over their pet when fireworks are going off. The dog notices that the owner is behaving unusually and therefore becomes agitated. By behaving normally when a trigger stimulus is present, you slowly counter-condition your dog.
Operant Conditioning
Each time he reacts calmly or indifferently to a stimuli that previously caused him to spin, give the dog a reward. This teaches him that calmness and passiveness have a positive outcome; it’s called operant conditioning and is the basis of reward-based training. Once your dog learns that his calm behavior results in a reward or treat, he’ll instinctively repeat the calm behavior.
Post Surgery Problems for Dogs That Got Spayed
Loose Sutures
Among the most common problems occurring in the recently spayed dog concerns loose sutures or stitches. That’s why your vet recommends using an Elizabethan collar on your dog for about a week, until her incision heals. Yes, your dog hates this “cone of shame,” but it prevents her from licking or chewing the incision. After you bring her home, check the incision a few times daily. If it appears inflamed or swollen, or any pus is seeping out, contact your vet immediately. While slight bleeding for a day or two after surgery is normal, call your vet if there’s significant bleeding. In a worst-case scenario, the incision opens and your dog’s intestines protrude. If that happens, get her to an emergency veterinary hospital at once.
Seromas and Abscesses
Dogs might develop lumps or swelling at the site of the incision. It’s important that your vet examine your dog and make a diagnosis, because these lumps have varying causes. A seroma may form underneath the sutures, filled with watery, reddish fluid. Keeping your dog quiet, as the vet recommends, lessens the odds of seroma formation. Your vet makes a diagnosis by taking a fluid sample. If pus rather than liquid emerges, your dog has an abscess, which means infection-causing bacteria have invaded the incision. Dogs with abscesses often are in pain, compared to those with the normally pain-free seromas. While a seroma might resolve on its own, abscesses require drainage and your vet will prescribe an antibiotic regimen.
Canine Hernias
Hernias occur when the sutures in your dog’s abdominal wall collapse. This can result in fat, intestines and even internal organs falling out of the abdomen and protruding beneath the skin. If the hernia consists only of fat, it shouldn’t cause your dog pain or serious consequences. If your dog appears in pain from the lump, suspect that the protrusion consists of intestinal parts or even organs (commonly the bladder) and get her to the vet immediately. Your pet might require emergency surgery to save her life.
Other Post-Spay Complications
It’s not unusual for dogs to suffer from constipation after spaying. If she doesn’t move her bowels by the fifth day post-surgery, ask your vet whether you might give your dog a stool softener. Your vet can recommend a specific brand and dosage. If she doesn’t have a bowel movement with a few days after consuming the stool softener, take her to the vet. Some female dogs develop urinary incontinence problems after spaying. If dribbling or more serious incontinence doesn’t resolve itself within a few days after the surgery, contact your vet.