If your dog suffers from confirmed allergies or intolerances, finding a commercial dog food that meets his needs can be difficult. Often the best means of providing for a dog with special dietary needs is cooking homemade dog food. Just use suitable substitute ingredients in place of those your dog’s allergic to in a basic dog food home recipe.

Determining the Allergy

Before you can create hypoallergenic dog food, you must determine the ingredients your dog is allergic or intolerant to. Your veterinarian may suggest an elimination diet, which will initially contain two ingredients, such as turkey and sweet potatoes. You feed this simple diet and watch for allergy symptom improvement. After a period, you and the vet will add ingredients, one at a time. With each addition, you monitor for allergy symptoms. When an ingredient triggers an allergic reaction, you’ve identified an ingredient you’ll want to eliminate from your pet’s diet.

Common Dog Allergies

According to Susan Wynn, former president of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, 10 percent of dog allergy cases are due to food. Symptoms include gastrointestinal issues, ear inflammation, diarrhea, vomiting and itchy skin. Beef, dairy, wheat, eggs, chicken, lamb, soy, pork, rabbit and fish are the most common ingredients responsible for dog allergies.

Ingredient Substitutions

Once you have determined an ingredient your dog is allergic to, seek suitable substitutions. If beef or chicken causes allergic reactions in your dog, use turkey or lamb instead. If dairy is an issue, look for lactose-free recipes. For wheat allergies, avoid recipes with flour, or substitute rice flour or rolled oats in its place.

Basic Recipe

For a basic recipe, add 1 cup of brown or white rice to 2 cups or water in a slow cooker. Add 1 to 2 cups of assorted vegetables such as sweet potatoes, green beans or carrots. Top with a pound of meat protein, such as two chicken breasts or a pound of lean ground beef. Cook on low for 8 hours or high for 5 hours.

Considerations

When making homemade dog food, it is essential that you meet your dog’s nutritional requirements. Discuss your recipe ideas with your veterinarian or a canine nutritionist to ensure your dog meets his nutritional requirements with your home-cooked diet. Armed with your recipes and knowledge of your dog’s dietary needs, your trusted vet will advise you on serving size, supplements and other tweaks.

As much as we all love for our furry friends to smell fresh and clean, getting to that point isn’t always easy. Dogs are rarely excited to jump into the bathtub for a good scrub. Bathing fearful dogs might be better handled by a professional groomer or your veterinary office. But if you decide to wade in, here are some helpful hints.

GETTING (YOU) READY

ThinkstockBe sure you’re donning clothes that you’re okay with getting wet and dirty (and furry). Move all your grooming materials into the bathroom shampoo (ask your vet for suggestions specific to your dog), conditioner (a must for longer coats that need to be brushed out), brush, mineral oil (for eyes), cotton balls (for ears), at least two big, absorbent towels and, most importantly, TREATS. Lay a non-skid mat down in the tub to help the dog keep his footing. If you don’t have a detachable showerhead, a bowl or even a large cup is helpful in rinsing.

GETTING (FIDO) READY

Trimming your pet’s nails prior to bath time will not only give your dog better footing, it will also help protect your skin in case he tries to make a break for it. Now, bring the dog into the bathroom and close the door behind you — catching a wet, soapy dog running down your hallway is no easy task! Give praise and treats to make him comfortable in the bathroom before you try to get him into the tub. If you’re able to, gently putting a cotton ball in each ear can help keep water out — just be sure to remove them when you’re finished! Also, to help keep shampoo from irritating his eyes, you can put a drop of mineral oil in each one.

BRING ON THE SUDS

Dogs are unlikely to get into the tub willingly. For bigger dogs, a second person to help you get Fido into the bath can help avoid straining your back. Make sure water isn’t too hot or too cold. Let your dog hear and then gently feel the water before going full-speed ahead with the bath. Start shampooing your dog’s shoulders and then move out from there. Be gentle around the face and any sensitive areas but be sure you get down to the undercoat. Read the directions on the shampoo bottle carefully to ensure proper usage. Rinse out all the shampoo, using your fingers to make sure you get through the undercoat to avoid subsequent irritation. This is where a detachable showerhead or bowl comes in handy to be sure bigger dogs get rinsed thoroughly.

NO MORE TANGLES

After the shampoo has been completely rinsed out, you can apply conditioner, if desired. Follow the directions on the bottle because some products need to sit on the coat for several minutes. If you have a particularly squirmy dog, you’ll want to find a fast-acting formula. Once you have finished the bath, it is time to dry your pooch. Towel dry as much as possible in the bathroom. For dogs with longer coats, you may want to use a blow dryer set on low. Before the dog leaves the bathroom, brush his coat out thoroughly because the bath will loosen up a lot of fur, which is better contained in the bathroom than all over the house. Many dogs get “after-bath-crazies,” so hold onto your hat and let ‘em run!

Atopy Flea allergy dermatitis

Photos courtesy David A. Senter, DVM

Cause: Inhaled substances such as dust mites and pollens (atopy or allergic inhalant dermatitis, an inherited condition); flea saliva (flea allergy dermatitis); contact with or ingestion of a triggering substance, including food ingredients.

Symptoms: Itching (often severe); skin rashes ranging from slight reddening to generalized inflammation with assorted bumps, pimples, and welt-like lesions; persistent ear infections. Secondary infections by bacteria and yeasts are common.

Treatment: Allergen avoidance, flea control, antihistamines, corticosteroids (“cortisone”), cyclosporine, and hyposensitization (“allergy shots”). Antibiotics and anti-yeast medications are used to treat secondary infections. Often a combination of therapies produces the best results.

Disclaimer: DogChannel.com’s Dog Skin Conditions are intended for educational purposes only. They are not meant to replace the expertise and experience of a professional veterinarian. Do not use the information presented here to make decisions about your dog’s ailment. If you notice changes in your dog’s health or behavior, please take your pet to the nearest veterinarian or an emergency pet clinic as soon as possible.

What do you get the love of your life when he has four paws? How about making your two- and four-legged family and friends a tasty snack they can enjoy together? Cut your holiday baking (and mess) in half with cookies that everyone will love.

The recipe was provided Harvey Morris, creator of the Baked Chicago blog. Harvey first created this recipe over 10 years ago for his black pugs, Buddy and Rhoda. It was one of their favorite dog treats. Harvey was inspired to use human-grade ingredients because he wanted to feed his dogs unprocessed foods that were good for them – and he had 13 nieces / nephews who were (at that time) under the age of 18. Many of the toddlers were known to share their treats with the Pugs and even drop them on the floor when they were no longer hungry. If that happened with the biscotti, it didn’t matter if a dog or another kid picked it up and ate it!

Peanut Butter-Banana Biscotti, with Peanut Butter Cream Cheese-Yogurt Icing

For Biscotti:

4 cups all-purpose flour (we used gluten free flour and it worked great too)

½ teaspoon baking soda

1 cup crunchy peanut butter

3 bananas, pureed

1 cup water

¼ cup vegetable oil

1 egg

1 tablespoon vanilla

For Icing:

2 tablespoons creamy peanut butter

2 tablespoons plain yogurt

8 ounces cream cheese

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

Steps to Make Doggie Biscotti

Preheat oven to 325F.

Place flour and baking soda in large bowl. Make a well in the center.

In another bowl, blend egg, vanilla, peanut butter, oil and banana together. Add into the well of the dry ingredients. Start combining together. Add water, one teaspoon at a time as needed.

Knead by hand on table until mixed thoroughly. Form into logs approximately 2″ in diameter. Flatten so that log is 6″ – 7″ wide by 1″ high. Place on baking sheets lined with parchment paper.

Bake 30 minutes. Remove from oven and cool for 10 minutes. Slice into 1/2″ slices. Place on baking sheets and continue to bake for about 30 minutes or until golden brown. Cool completely before icing.

To make the icing, mix the peanut butter, yogurt and cream cheese until smooth. Mix in one tablespoon of flour at a time until you have the consistency and texture you want. Drizzle the icing lightly on the biscotti and let set.

Figuring out what to do with all of your dogs things can be overwhelming. From leashes to toys, to medications and foods it can quickly become clear that your house is a dog house. We of course, want to acknowledge that there is a dog in our house, but there’s a fine line between it being a house with a dog in it or a dog’s house with you in it.

Dog stuff can overrun your house, says Jeri Dansky, a professional organizer from Half Moon Bay, Calif. She advises creating hidden storage opportunities.

8 Clever Ways to Organize Your Dog’s Things:

Dog items with bonus space. Look for dog beds with a drawer underneath, pet steps with a lift-up step top, or elevated feeders with storage under the bowls. A dog Murphy bed saves floor space.

Double-duty furnishings. Assign toys to the space under an ottoman’s top, or keep dog towels in a bench with a lift-up seat.

Kitchen cabinets. Mount a spice rack under your over-counter cabinets to hold dog medications and supplements. Mount narrow shelves or hang an over-door shelf unit on the inside of cabinet doors.

Awkward spaces. Install a lazy Susan or pull-out storage unit to utilize cabinet corners.

Behind doors. Add a shoe organizer with pockets, a shelf unit, or rows of hooks. If you can’t install something on the door, use over-the-door hooks or organizers.

Underneath furniture. Hide gear in containers that fit under beds, sofas, and tables.

Walls. Hang wall pockets, or install shelves to host supplies in baskets. Use hooks or pegs for leashes.

Stored luggage. Between vacations, store out-of-season dog clothes and coats in suitcases.

“Look up, down, and think creatively,” Dansky adds.

Let’s talk toys. Among all of your dog’s things, toys can be the hardest to corral. If you leave them out they are likely to end up strewn across your floors, if you hide them away, your dog might not play with them at all. So how can you prevent dog toy clutter while still encouraging play?

6 Tips for Toy Clutter

Location, location, location. To find the right storage solution, first consider where your dog plays most, and look for storage options in that room. If your dog plays with Frisbee discs and balls outdoors, store those on the patio or covered deck for an immediate game of fetch.

Who, what, when. Then consider how your dog plays — does she play mostly alone or with you? What types of toys does she prefer, and how does she act with different kinds of toys? Does she need supervision with certain toys? Your answers will help you decide between using an open storage container with anytime dog access, or a closed or out-of-reach container so you control the toys she plays with.

Size maters. When choosing an open container, the right depth depends on the height of your dog. Hide her favorite toy at the bottom of the toy basket; she will enjoy “shopping’’ through the pile to find it.

Decisions, decisions. To manage toys, you could provide your dog a choice among self-play toys like plush and squeaky toys, yet keep interactive-play toys like tug and tossing toys out of reach until you’re ready to play. You might reserve chew and treat toys for special occasions. Your storage will vary accordingly.

Rotate and remove. Your dog will accumulate more and more toys as time goes on, but likely will have a few favorites. He probably doesn’t need five balls and 10 squeaky toys. Store duplicate toys away and switch one or two of them out every few weeks to keep your dog interested and engaged. Remove old toys that have fallen apart or aren’t getting any attention and introduce other toys you’ve been storing away.

Permission to hide. Your dog doesn’t need all his toys, all the time. Look for baskets, bins, and boxes that have a carry handle or wheels, or fit under a table so you can easily tuck pet toys away before company arrives.

Zookeepers are well aware of the value of husbandry training for their animals. Animals in zoos often need to be weighed, have blood drawn, get their nails clipped, and various other maintenance activities. Gone are the days when animals are anesthetized or pressed into squeeze cages for this work. Now trainers teach the animals to stand quietly while their bodies are handled or medicated. Elephants open their mouths to have their teeth inspected, giraffes stand still on a weigh scale, and dolphins swim up and hold out their fins to have blood taken. How do trainers accomplish this? It’s actually quite simple. The animal is taught to climb on the weigh scale or present its ear for the reward of a treat. The behavior is well established without exposing the animal to any unpleasant experiences. An impressive example is the story of a diabetic baboon living in a California zoo. The baboon needed daily insulin shots but he was so aggressive, he had to be sedated each time. This was taking a toll on his health, because of both the sedative and the chronic stress. The zoo brought in animal trainer Gary Priest to see what could be accomplished. Progressing in very small steps, Gary was able to teach the baboon to extend his arm through the bars of the cage and grasp a bar while a technician applied alcohol to his arm, presented a needle, and applied a quick pinch. Eventually, the baboon was happy to go through the whole routine for his favorite reward. Several times a day, the procedure was repeated and, once a day, the baboon was given his insulin. To ensure the baboon’s continued cooperation, the number of mock injections had to be much greater than the number of real injections.

ThinkstockIf it’s possible to teach baboons and elephants to tolerate annoying and even painful procedures, why does the average dog turn into Kujo when he needs his nails clipped or his ears medicated? Zoo trainers take the time to go through mock procedures over and over, following each repetition with food rewards. Only very rarely do they actually include the painful part. Puppy and dog owners would do well to subscribe to the same type of training. Teach the dog to stand or lie quietly while having his ears, eyes, mouths, and feet handled. Intersperse with frequent treats. Start when the dog is settling down for a nap so he’ll be relatively calm. With sufficient repetitions, the dog will eventually habituate and even come to enjoy the handling.

Two or three times a day, play “air” nail clipping. Have your puppy or dog sit and stay. Lift one paw and pretend to clip all the nails but just clip air! Do the same with all four feet. Once a day, clip ONE nail (only if they need it). Intersperse treats throughout. If you do this religiously, your dog will be well mannered and calm during nail clipping. Now, I don’t continue to do this throughout my dog’s life. Once you’ve established a solid foundation, your dog will only need occasional practice.

If your dog is already averse to nail clipping, you’ll have to break the procedure down to miniscule steps. You may have to start by just holding your dog’s paw and touching each nail, with the nail clippers sitting on a nearby table. Treat frequently. Once the dog is comfortable with this, hold the nail clippers in one hand, while holding the dog’s paw with the other. Next, “air clip” only one nail, give an amazing treat, and quit. Resist progressing until the dog is completely comfortable with the step you’re working on. Again, it’s advisable to do this when the dog is sleepy so you’ll meet with less resistance. Be patient – it can take months to reform an intractable nail “clippee”. If all else fails, trot your dog on pavement every day and your nail clipping activities will be restricted to his dewclaws!

Every dog is likely to need medication at some point in his life.

It’s a good idea to accustom your puppy to having his mouth handled so that you can give pills or liquid medicine. For this, I recommend the “baby bird” routine. You’ve probably seen how a baby bird opens its mouth wide to receive a meal from its parent. The baby trusts that food will end up in its mouth. You can teach your puppy to also expect a prize when you open his mouth. Hold the puppy in your lap and place one hand over the top of the puppy’s muzzle. Pry his jaw wide open. With the other hand, pull his bottom jaw down and place a tasty treat on his tongue. Release his mouth. He’ll immediately discover and eat the treat. Make sure you don’t place the treat so far back that the puppy might choke. Repeat numerous times. Pretty soon your puppy will welcome you handling his mouth and, if you occasionally stick a pill inside the treat, your puppy will be unlikely to notice. You may not ever need this training to successfully administer pills but it sure is handy if you have to give liquid medicine or poke around in there to retrieve a chicken bone.

Is there a better way to give pills? Dogs that love food are pretty easy to give pills – just hide the pill in a piece of cheese or wiener and the chowhound is happy to take his medicine. More discriminating dogs chew their food, detect the unwanted pill, and leave it lying on the kitchen floor. For these pill-savvy dogs, here’s a trick that often works. Teach the dog to catch treats tossed to him. Most dogs don’t bother to chew if you get them expecting to catch treats one after the other. On pill days, toss a series of yummy treats, with the pill hidden amongst them. Your dog will never suspect!

Be proactive with your dog. Teach him to enjoy all the things that will inevitably happen to him. He’ll be handled by groomers, poked and prodded by technicians, given needles by veterinarians. You’ll need to check his teeth, inspect his ears and eyes, clip his nails, and give him medication. None of these experiences are naturally pleasant for the dog so teach him to enjoy them. Your dog will be so much easier to care for if you do the foundation work.

Superficial bacterial folliculitis

Photo courtesy David A. Senter, DVM

Cause: Most commonly, Staphylococcus (“staph”) bacteria, usually secondary to other skin disorders such as allergies, demodicosis (mange), endocrine problems, trauma, foreign bodies, and many others.

Symptoms: Shorthaired dogs often have patchy hair loss, tufts of hair raised above the coat surface and/or reddish or brown “staining” of white hairs. Longhaired dogs may have more subtle symptoms, including scaly skin, dull coat, and excessive shedding. Regardless of coat type, clipping may be necessary to fully reveal the extent of the disorder. The underlying skin lesions include bumps, pimples, crusts, or scales occurring singly, in clusters, or over large areas; reddened circular hairless areas with or without darker pigmentation in the center; scaly or crusty skin may surround the individual lesions in a circular pattern (epidermal collarettes). The degree of itchiness varies from intense to non-existent.

Treatment: Oral antibiotics for three to four weeks or longer, depending on the response; antibacterial shampoos; antibacterial ointments or sprays. Because superficial bacterial folliculitis occurs secondary to other disorders, identification and concurrent treatment of the underlying cause are essential for successful resolution.

Disclaimer: DogChannel.com’s Dog Skin Conditions are intended for educational purposes only. They are not meant to replace the expertise and experience of a professional veterinarian. Do not use the information presented here to make decisions about your dog’s ailment. If you notice changes in your dog’s health or behavior, please take your pet to the nearest veterinarian or an emergency pet clinic as soon as possible.