Your best friend’s reached his golden years. He’s not as spry as he was. Maybe he doesn’t see or hear as well. Older dogs require special care, but they also bring special gifts. You want the best for your old pal, giving him the highest quality of life you can.

Feeding

You might want to switch your dog to a special diet formulated for senior canines. It’s important to prevent Fido from becoming fat. Obesity isn’t healthy at any age, but it’s a condition that less-active senior dogs consuming the same amount of food they did in their prime can easily develop. Talk to your vet about your dog’s diet and any special nutritional requirements he might have.

Preventive Care

If you’re lucky, your senior dog is healthy and you want to keep him that way. That might mean taking him to the vet more often than his once-a-year checkup. According to the American Animal Hospital Association, older dogs “in the last 25 percent of the predicted life span for their breed” should optimally have an examination about every six months. Your vet monitors your dog’s weight, inspects him for any arthritic changes and examines his skin for any lumps or bumps. Regular blood, thyroid, fecal and urine tests alert your vet to any changes requiring further investigation. Tell your vet about any changes you’ve noticed in your dog’s behavior, even if it seems minor to you.

Supplements

While your vet prescribes any necessary medication for your old dog, some over-the-counter supplements may improve his quality of life if he shows certain arthritic changes. Supplements for dogs containing glucosamine, chondroitin sulfate and methyl-sufonyl-methane may slow down the cartilage breakdown that is the essence of arthritis. While these supplements might help put a spring back in his step, always check with your vet before giving your dog any over-the-counter treatment.

Exercise

Even if your dog develops a little hitch in his get-along, he still needs exercise. Regular exercise keeps joints mobile, but his activity level probably isn’t what it once was. Instead of going for runs, take him for walks. Maybe he isn’t up for a half-hour spin around the neighborhood every day, but 15 minutes or so might suit him just fine.

Making Adjustments

Maybe Fido can’t get up and down the stairs as easily as he once did. If you allow him on the furniture, it might be tough for him to climb onto a chair, sofa or bed. You can purchase or build ramps to help him get where he wants to go more easily. If he can’t navigate the stairs to the places he once slept, provide a convenient new sleeping area for him.

While English spaniels are generally a healthy breed with limited serious health issues, poor breeding can exacerbate some conditions the breed is prone to. For best results, only purchase English spaniels from reputable, licensed breeders and inquire about parent genetics and health testing to ensure you are getting a strong, thriving pup. If you’re adopting or rescuing a dog and knowing your dog’s health history is important to you, consider DNA testing to ensure you have a good understanding of the dog’s lineage.

Eye Conditions

English spaniels are prone to progressive retinal atrophy, a type of inherited degenerative condition that can result in diminished vision or blindness. While it primarily impacts middle-aged dogs, even dogs as young as 2 years old can develop the disorder. According to the English Springer Spaniel Club, this breed also may develop glaucoma in one or both eyes. Depending on the severity of the condition, the dog can lose its eyesight or even lose an eye as a result. Cataracts and retinal dysplasia also can develop in this breed. Regular eye exams can help identify potential problems and address them early to reduce the potential for pain and vision loss.

Inherited Diseases

Canine fucosidosis is an inherited disease of the nervous system that can be fatal if not identified and treated quickly. The English Springer Spaniel Club indicates this disease is most commonly found in young dogs and includes symptoms such as loss of coordination, problems with vision and hearing and digestive issues. The condition is caused by the missing enzyme alpha-L-fucosidase. Genetic testing is available to determine if your pup has the potential for this disorder.

Hip Dysplasia

English spaniels may be subject to the joint condition hip dysplasia. Symptoms include lameness in hind legs, a tendency to be slow to stand or hopping when running or walking. Hip dysplasia, left undiagnosed and untreated, can lead to a painful arthritic condition and severely limit movement. According to the Baker Institute of Animal Health, your vet can identify the disease through X-rays. The symptoms of the disorder can be minimized through pain relief and treatment with joint-lubricating supplements.

Epileptic Symptoms

Epilepsy can occur in English spaniels. Dogs of this breed who contract the disorder usually exhibit symptoms in the first three years of life. According to the English Springer Spaniel Field Trial Association, the condition is characterized by repeated seizures and often is confused with other neurological and health conditions. English spaniels also are prone to canine autoimmune disease, which can exacerbate various forms of epilepsy, so proper diagnosis is essential to effective treatment.

The Pomeranian descended from the sled dogs of Iceland. In the late 1800’s, Queen Victoria of England fell in love with the breed and its popularity spread from there. In early times and today, caring for a Pomeranian involves a lifetime of grooming. The long, lush double coat requires continuous care. Luckily, learning few tips and tricks, helps cut down on grooming time.

Preparing

The first step in grooming a Pomeranian successfully is early preparation. Since the Pomeranian requires routine grooming, it is important she learns early to accept the process. Teaching her to stand for grooming and lie on her side or back when she is a puppy helps make grooming pleasurable for the puppy and the groomer. She should enjoy the bonding time associated with grooming and not dread it.

Brushing

Brushing the Pom daily is ideal, since his thick, double coat will get matted and tangled. However, not every pet owner has an extra 30 minutes a day. In this case, two weekly brushings is the minimum you can get by with to maintain his soft coat. Using a curved-bristle slicker brush, start with the hair on the Pom’s back and hold a section in your free hand. Brush downward from the part using a method referred to as “line brushing.” When brushing your Pom, make sure you don’t bear down too hard and scratch his skin. Follow up with a metal comb, and make sure all mats and tangles are gone. If any remain, hold the hair out from the skin and work them out using the comb, starting at the end of the hair and working toward the skin.

Bathing

The Pomeranian requires a bath only about once a month. After a thorough brushing, wet the Pom and apply a dog shampoo for sensitive skin, such as oatmeal shampoo. Rub the shampoo in until it forms suds. Rinse the Pom well and spritz his coat with a light leave-in conditioner for dogs. Finish up his bath by blotting his coat dry with a towel. Dry the Pom completely using a hairdryer on the lowest setting. Use a slicker brush to enhance the coat’s shine.

Clipping and Trimming

Many Pomeranian owners and breeders choose not to worry with grooming the thick coat. In this case, they choose a lion cut. This cut may be a low-maintenance solution; however, it takes away from the natural protection. Also, once the Pom’s coat is cut short, it may never grow back with the same thickness and shape it had previously. Therefore, scissoring only the anal area and hair under the paws is recommended by the Pet Pom website. Additionally, plucking the hair out of the Pomeranian’s ears helps prevent ear infections. A groomer should clip the Pom’s toenails when they are long.

You may be anxious to flex your culinary muscles for your pup, which can be great for both of you. Duke probably will appreciate a tasty, healthy alternative to kibble and you may save some spare change. Keep in mind, it’s not about ingredients, but more about nutrition.

Proper Nutrition

Though it requires time and effort, cooking for Duke gives you ultimate control over his diet. During the past several years, there’s been controversy surrounding pet foods, including the safety of manufactured pet food and the wisdom of feeding dogs and cats raw food. Homemade cooked food for pets has evolved into a satisfactory middle ground for many people, including veterinarians, provided the diet meets the animal’s specific nutritional needs.

Protein Requirements

Dr. Ronald Hines recommends protein ingredients comprise 20 to 45 percent of a dog’s diet. Options include ground beef, ground turkey, ground chicken, fish, eggs and dairy. If Duke loves beef, try a mixture of two-thirds to three-quarters of extra lean beef, with ground chuck filling out the balance; Duke will meet his dietary fat requirements without the benefit of supplements. Turkey that has 7 to 15 percent fat will work well in a homemade diet for a dog that isn’t watching his weight. If your pup has a taste for seafood, salmon is a good choice, with high omega-3 fatty acids and low mercury. Dr. Hines recommends limiting fish to two meals per week. Whole cooked eggs and cottage cheese are good sources of protein, though some dogs may have a difficult time digesting the cow’s milk in cottage cheese.

Carbohydrate Requirements

According to Dr. Hines, carbohydrates can comprise between 20 and 35 percent of Duke’s diet. Rice is a solid choice because it contains protein, as well as important minerals, such as phosphorus. If your pooch enjoys macaroni, it can be added to the mix, as wheat products don’t tend to cause dogs problems. Cooked potatoes are also fine and provide fiber and vitamin B-6. Dr. Hines recommends adding high fiber carbs such as oatmeal, canned pumpkin, cooked carrots and sweet peas gradually to the diet to avoid developing diarrhea.

Fat, Minerals and Vitamins

Fat is important to Duke and should comprise about 5 to 10 percent of his diet. Chicken fat, beef suet and flax seed oil are a few options for add-ins if your pup isn’t getting sufficient fat from his protein. The basic ingredients for protein usually aren’t quite enough to ensure your dog’s proper nutrition because meat and fish are too low in calcium and vitamins. Calcium carbonate antacid tablets are a fine addition to the homemade mix. A professional supplement, such as Balance IT, may give you peace of mind that Duke’s getting the minerals he needs. Too much of one vitamin can be as harmful as a deficiency, so it’s not a good idea to add vitamin supplements just in case. If you’re serving a well-balanced diet, you won’t need to worry about supplements.

Research is Important

If you want to cook for Duke, do your research to be sure your recipes are balanced and nutritious. It’s also a good idea to consult your vet to make sure your pup doesn’t have any special needs or issues to consider. Your vet should be able to guide you on the potential need and use of supplements.

While little dog breeds can be more temperamental and high-strung than their larger counterparts, their diminutive size provides an advantage during house-training. Tethering a dog to your side or quickly urging him to an appropriate elimination area is easier and more efficient when he weighs 5 pounds rather than 75.

Get on a Schedule

Housebreaking is just as much about training yourself as it is about training your dog. Get into a regular routine of taking your dog to his appropriate elimination spot. Potty training generally begins to be effective after 6 weeks of age — no eariler. You can expect your pup to “hold it” for about one hour per month of age, plus one hour — so an 8-week-old pup should go out for potty breaks, at minimum, every two to three hours or within 10 or 15 minutes of eating, drinking or chewing. It’s tempting to pick up a tiny dog and take him outside when it’s time to go potty, but it’s better to train the dog to go under his own volition when you command. A common strategy for training is to use a key word, such as, “Outside,” regularly. Use a leash, and go out the same door every time to encourage good outside bathroom habits.

Tether Your Pup

While it’s tough to attach a big dog to your side via leash all afternoon as a way to watch for potty indicators, it’s much easier to take this approach with a small dog. If your pup is sneaking off to do his business in an inappropriate location or has regular accidents, keep his leash on him when you’re at home and tie the leash to your belt or wrist. Keeping your dog under constant supervision will help you recognize signs that it’s time to “go.” Take your pup to his designated spot, praise him for going to the bathroom and reward him with a treat.

Make Bathroom Places Safe

Individual dogs of smaller breeds can be intimidated by the great outdoors, so make sure your designated outdoor bathroom area feels like a safe place so your puppy will be comfortable doing his business without fear. If possible, avoid high-traffic areas, thick woods, tall grasses or areas that larger animals frequent. If your small dog gets frightened when it’s bathroom time, it can inhibit your housebreaking efforts. Opt for a secluded, and perhaps even fenced, area for your pup to do his business in solitude.

Clean Up Accidents

Little dogs have little accidents, sometimes so small that you won’t even notice them until the smell starts to accumulate. Keep an eye out for accidents, and clean them thoroughly with an enzymatic cleaner to remove all traces of odor and prevent remarking. Invest in a black-light pee detector, and use it regularly during the housebreaking process to ensure accidents don’t go unnoticed and untreated.

Indoor Potty Options

You can successfully housebreak some small breeds to pee pads or an indoor potty, which can be especially beneficial if you live in an apartment or condo, or if you’re housebound. Follow the same outdoor housebreaking guidelines using a designated spot in your home, preferably in a low-traffic area that’s out of the way, like a bathroom or a laundry room — a room without carpet serves best.

Though your pup may be happy, he may not be able to control his weepy ways. There are different reasons a dog may have weepy eyes, and a few breeds are a little more prone to eye discharge. Any dog can have tear stains; washing Buddy’s face regularly will wipe those stains away. Have a question? Get an answer from a Vet now!

Epiphora

There’s a name for all those those tears Buddy’s been shedding: epiphora. Formally referred to as “watery ocular discharge,” excess tears is a common issue for pet owners. If your pooch has excess tears running down his face, over time, they’ll stain his fur to a reddish-brown color. Sometimes it’s hard to notice the stains on a dog with a dark face, but dark-colored dogs experience epiphora as often as their fair relatives. Over time, chronic excess tearing can lead to skin irritation, odor and infection.

Weepy Breeds

Brachycephalic is not a word you see or hear much, but if you break it down to its Greek roots, you’ll understand: “brachy” means short and “cephalic” means head. If Buddy’s a pooch with a short or pushed in face, he’s vulnerable to epiphora. Breeds in this class include shih tzu, Pekingese, boxer, pug, Boston terrier and bulldog. These dogs have shallow eye sockets or hair growth in the skin folds around their eyes, which makes tear drainage a problem. Bichon frise, Maltese and poodles have the same issues, and poodles and cocker spaniels are more prone to blocked tear ducts than other breeds.

Why The Tears

Buddy doesn’t have to be of a breed that’s vulnerable to weepy eyes to have them. There are two reasons a dog may have weepy eyes: irritation and poor tear drainage. Allergies, stray hairs or objects, environmental irritants such as smog or dust, and ingrown hairs all can cause irritation leading to epiphora. If that’s Buddy’s problem, the vet should be able to address the issue and put an end to the crying and the stains. However, sometimes the tears don’t drain properly. In a healthy eye, when a dog’s eye tears up, the tears will go through small “drain holes” in his eyes to his nasal passage down to his throat. Conditions interrupting this process include shallow eye sockets, eyelids that are turned inward, blocked tear drainage holes and hair growth around the eye, which redirects tears onto the face.

Controlling Tears

In some cases, surgery can help dry up those excess tears. A blocked duct can be flushed out and some eyelid problems can be corrected surgically to eliminate the irritation. If the irritation is due to something in the environment, minimizing Buddy’s exposure to it will help. There’s nothing to do for a dog with shallow eye sockets; after all, it’s the way he’s made. Your best option is to keep on top of his tear stains by gently washing around his eyes with a wet, warm paper towel. Your vet can recommend appropriate wipes to safely keep his face clean and tear-stain free.

Search and rescue dogs provide an invaluable service to law enforcement officials and crime scene investigators. Many search and rescue dogs focus on specialized search methods, such as dogs trained to detect human remains. These dogs, also known as cadaver dogs, pick up scents for bodies, either whole or parts, in various stages of decomposition. In order to perform this service, the dogs and their handlers need to receive certification from accredited schools located across the country.

Search and Rescue Dogs of the United States

Search and Rescue Dogs of the United States trains dogs for Type 1 Human Remains Detection (HRD). With this training type, the qualifying dogs should be able to detect human remains within natural debris fields or wilderness areas within a 200 by 200 foot area. They should also be able to locate buried bodies within a 75 by 75 foot area. The dogs must exhibit self-sustainability for 24 hours and have the stamina to endure 12 hour search missions. At the conclusion of the course, the dogs and handlers must pass a standard HRD test.

Mountain View Dog Training

Mountain View Dog Training is owned and operated by dog training specialist Sheila K. McKee. Mountain View trains any working breed of dog for human remains detection but notes that retrievers often work best. Dogs should be 10 months to 2 years old with good social skills and in good health in order to complete the training. Training for HRD certification takes 160 to 200 hours. Mountain View uses FEMA Canine Search Readiness Evaluation Type II Elements, focusing on obedience, agility and directional control. While the school does not offer the HRD evaluation, it states that dogs trained there should be able to pass with little effort. Mountain View also offers an 80 hour handler training course, as well as lifelong handler/dog communication.

Highland Canine Training

Highland Canine Training offers both obedience and working dog training, including human remains detection. Highland Canine Training trains HRD dogs for both water and land detection. Dogs can be trained to alert handlers with an active move or a passive one. The facilities feature FEMA regulated agility courses, a rubble pile and a pond for training. Evaluation for a dog’s potential as a HRD dog is free of charge but the training courses, including handler training, do cost money.

Bear Search and Rescue Foundation

Bear Search and Rescue Foundation earns its name from the courageous rescue dog Bear, one of the first rescue dogs who headed to Ground Zero to seek out survivors and deceased persons after the 9/11 attacks. Following Bear’s passing, his owners created the foundation in order to train other dogs to follow in Bear’s footsteps. While based in New York, Bear Search and Rescue travels around the country teaching trailing and cadaver courses. The courses provided work for both beginners and higher level cadaver dogs. Introduction courses last about three days, while the intensive training courses last about four to five days.